For today’s project, we’re building a DIY penny board—perfect for thrill seekers or anyone looking to ride the original style of skateboard! "Penny board" became the generic term for this small style of skateboard that gained popularity in the 1970s.
Dunn Lumber's marketing coordinator, Max Byrnes, was inspired to create this DIY penny board from his childhood memories of riding a similar board with his grandfather.
"My grandpa had this board in the 1970s. It was kinda sketchy, no grip tape, just two stripes he painted on the top, with roller skate trucks and wheels on it," Max said. "I had so much fun on it because of the chaos of it. He taught me how to ride it and pulled me behind his bike around the neighborhood."
Beyond being nostalgic, this DIY penny board is a compact, portable, and lightweight skateboard that provides a fun way to get around town (or go in circles around the cul-de-sac).
So, let’s get started!
Step 1: Cut plywood
The first step of building your DIY penny board is to trim down your plywood. To get started, you’ll need your birch plywood, clamp, tape measure, and pencil.
First, clamp the plywood onto a work surface. Now that your plywood is secure, use your tape measure to mark out 2 ½’ by 3’ on the board. Then, using your circular saw, make the cut.
Step 2: Trace deck outline
Next we’ll be making an outline of the deck shape to trace onto your 2 ½’ by 3’ plywood piece. For this step, you’ll need a pencil, painter’s tape, and a large piece of paper. The paper could be anything from printer paper taped together, wrapping paper, or even cardboard.
To create the outline you can print and cut out our online template (download here), design your own, or trace the outline of an old deck you have at home onto your paper. You can also measure where you want the trucks to sit on the outline to save time.
With your paper outline, use painter’s tape and loop the tape so it can stick to the back of the paper. Stick the paper to the plywood piece, and use your pencil to trace the deck shape onto the plywood.
Remove the paper outline, but keep it close by. Next, we’ll cover the pencil cut lines you traced with painter's tape. Using the painter’s tape will help prevent tear-out when cutting with the jigsaw later. Once your tape is applied, grab your paper outline again and retrace the deck onto the tape.
Step 3: Cut out deck
Now that the shape of your penny board deck is traced onto the plywood, it’s time to cut it out.
Using your circular saw, make relief cuts every 2” to 3” perpendicular to the deck outline (stopping about 1/8” away from the tape), on each side of the deck outline.
Once you have your relief cuts, use a jigsaw to cut out the new deck. Hold down the jigsaw firmly and take it slow to ensure a solid cut.
If the relief cut pieces do not fall off while you’re cutting, use the jigsaw to cut the final 1/8” after each portion of the deck is cut. Once the deck is fully cut out, gently remove the painter’s tape from the deck.
Step 4: Chisel edges
With your deck cut, clamp the piece to your work surface. For this step we’ll be using a chisel, but you can achieve the same effect with sanding. Grab your chisel (or sandpaper) and place it at about a 45-degree angle on the edge of the deck. Then shave down the sharp corners to give the deck beveled edges.
Once you’ve chiseled or sanded all the edges on this side of the deck, flip the deck over, and re-clamp the piece. Repeat the same chisel or sanding process on the other side, with the chisel placed at a 45-degree angle, and shave off the edges.
Step 5: Sand deck
Now let’s sand the deck and smooth out your penny board. You’ll need your orbital sander, 60-grit sheets, and 120-grit sandpaper.
First, with your orbital sander and 60-grit sheets, sand the chiseled edges until the angle is smoothed and shaped into a subtle curve on both sides of the deck. Still using your orbital sander, sand out any nicks caused by the chisels or jigsaw.
Then, with 120-grit sandpaper, sand the surface of the deck from top to bottom. Now your deck is prepared for finishing.
Step 6: Apply finish spray
To weather-protect your penny board, spray a clear coat of urethane on the entire deck. Hold the can about 12" away from the board and spray the first coat getting both sides and edges.
Let the deck dry for at least 30 minutes; then, sand the board again and re-apply the clear coat. This process can be repeated up to four times.
Wait 24 hours for the coat to fully dry before moving on to the next step.
Step 7: Mark pilot holes
Once the clear coat has dried, grab the paper outline we used in Step 2 that has the truck holes marked. Lay the paper across the deck and with your utility knife, poke holes through the outline where the truck holes are marked. Before moving on, double-check that the markings match up with the holes on the trucks themselves.
Next, use your painter’s tape to cover both sides of the deck where the pilot holes will be drilled. Then lay your paper outline on the deck again and mark through the outline, onto the painter’s tape, where the trucks will sit on the tape.
Step 8: Drill pilot holes
Before drilling, clamp the deck to a work surface, with the side of the deck being drilled hanging off the edge.
Grab your drill, ⅛” drill bit, and ¼” drill bit. First run the ⅛” drill bit through the pilot holes to make the first drill more stable, and follow with a ¼” drill bit. Drill the pilot holes on each side of the deck.
Step 9: Sand pilot holes
Next, remove the painter’s tape on the surface of the deck and sand over the pilot hole areas with 120-grit sandpaper.
Swap out for 180-grit sandpaper and go over the deck until both sides and edges are smooth.
Step 10: Cut grip tape
Set the deck aside and grab your grip tape, tape measure, and pencil. When it comes to grip tape, you can put on as much as you’d like; for this project, we used two 3” strips.
To cut these, use a ruler or level to ensure a straight cut, and slice the strips with your utility knife.
Place the strips an inch apart from the center of the deck and mark where the tape hits the end of the deck.
Using the utility knife, cut the center of the tape strip but press lightly so that the backing is cut, but the tape remains intact.
Step 11: Apply grip tape
Lay the strips down on the face of the deck one at a time against the marks made in the middle.
Slowly remove the backers and press the tape into the deck to ensure there are no air pockets.
Using the back of your utility knife or pencil, rub the grip tape against the edge of the deck, then cut off the excess tape and press the grip tape’s edges into the deck.
Step 12: Fasten trucks
For this step, you’ll need your trucks, ¼” riser pads, Philips head screwdriver, wrench, 10-32 screws, and 10-32 hex nuts. Using an awl or a Philips head, punch holes through the grip tape where the trucks will be fastened. Then take your 10-32 screws and push them through the deck.
Flip the deck upside down and place the ¼” riser pad and trucks on the screws. Using a Philips head screwdriver and wrench, tighten the 10-32 hex nuts to the bottom of the trucks, securing them to the penny board.
Note: we used 60mm wheels and a 1/4" riser pad, but if you want to use a different wheel size, you may also need a different sized riser pad. Check the chart below for compatibility:
Step 13: Adjust trucks
To adjust the trucks and make the penny board work for you, stand on the deck and push back and forth heel to toe to ensure correct tension on the trucks. If you need more or less tension, adjust the trucks with a wrench or skate tool.
Now all that’s left to do is take it for a ride!
Looking for more DIY inspiration? Check out our DIY sofa arm console and DIY PVC tent—both perfect for spending time indoors this winter!
